Not many people, outside the companies I’ve worked, for that over the last 6 years, I have been trained professionally in makeup artistry. I have been taught flawless base looks from Clinique Education and natural eye looks by Chase Aston. However, my choice was to specialise in skincare and with running a male grooming and skincare website, I don’t get to flex my literary muscle in the direction of makeup very often.
So, for Andrew James, I thought I’d amalgamate the two, and give you, his readers, a guide to setting up your skin for the perfect base.
Ask yourself –
Is my base only lasting by mid day?
Do I find almost no trace of makeup by the time I get home?
Are powders clumping up and looking dusty? Well. Read on…
Cleanse, Tone, Exfoliate, Treat and Moisturise. I have very little patience for toning, for reasons that are too long to go into here, but it’s a little bit of a false prophecy, far better to exfoliate well, gently and often
Firstly, know your skin type. You’re skin-type is a pretty tangible thing that can change year by year and season by season and should not be confused with skin concerns which are skin problems, whereas your type refers to the balance of oil and water.. Go to your favourite skincare counter and find out what it is, any cosmeticist worth their weight should be able to accurately skin type you.
On a side note, if you have spots, don’t ignore it, it’s the worst thing I’ve had to deal with over the years is clients in denial. We all get them from time to time, and pretending you don’t can lead to them becoming worse; your makeup will never look its best, as there are different products and techniques you need to use to combat this concern.
For a good makeup base, exfoliation is key and it’s shocking how many of us don’t do it enough. I am an advocate of chemical exfoliation, so look for products that contain ingredients such as salicylic acid, a natural and effective exfoliant. Strong physical scrubs are not always the best for facial skin, removing skin cells whilst also causing micro-damage. I use alternating combinations of clarifying lotion, a clarisonic device and tretinoin but find what’s best for you; doing it once a day/twice a day with something gentle is far better than twice/three times a week with something powerful. If you’ve not exercised for a while, you start slow and this is the same with exfoliation.
By removing dead skin cells, you leave your skin’s surface smooth and event, allowing makeup to more easily bond to it and prevent a build up of dead skin cells from excessively falling away during the day, taking your makeup with it.
Cleansing is hugely important, and I’m sorry, makeup wipes just don’t cut it. They never remove all your makeup, and although are useful at 4am as you drunkly claw away your smeared lipstick, they should never be used regularly as a makeup cleanser. By leaving trace amounts of makeup on your skin as you sleep, clogs your pores and ultimately results in spots. Facial washes are also not makeup removers, and I applaur you not to use 2-in-1 products. It’s either a makeup remover, or, a facial wash.
A makeup remover should dissolve makeup effectively, giving you a clear surface to then wash – removing dirt, bacteria and debris. Someone told me a while ago that using a facial wash over makeup is like getting in the shower with your clothes on, it just won’t reach your skin.
Finally, the use of a primer is always a bonus. This is where your skin concern comes into play. If you have redness, then use a green base primer. Hypo-pigmentation / Age Spots, use a purple primer. Oiliness, a mattifier, and dryness, a radiance enhancer.
There are literally hundreds available on the market, designed to counteract most skin concerns, find one that works for you. Only every apply a small amount, as they are designed to sit on the surface on the skin, therefore too much will cause your makeup to move around and not sit as well as you’d like.
Give this all a try and I guarantee your makeup will look better than if you don’t.
Experiment, play, research and remember, if a friend recommends something, check if you have the same skin type or concern, as something that works for one person, doesn’t necessarily work for another. Tweet me @Manfaceblog with any questions or to ask about product recommendations.